Needle of a Sewing Machine: Motion,Types,Sizes, and Schmetz Needle

Introduction

When I first took up my sewing machine, all the teeny needles baffled me, how many sizes and types could you possibly need? And why did the stitches jump once in a while, or the fabric crumple slightly? After years and years of making clothes, quilts, and little mends, I discovered that how a needle of a sewing machine moves (and what kind of needles it uses) may be one of the most overlooked contributors to whether or not a fabric sews properly.

In this guide, I’m going to share with you my experience and talk about some absolute beginners sewing tips on what sizes are sewing machine needle, types of sewing machine needles, how big they are, Schmetz needle sizes and uses, as well as hand sewing needle sizes in mm, and how to use a hand sewing needle size chart. I’m also going to demonstrate for you the movement of the sewing Machine needle.

And by the time we’re done here, I hope you can say that this is a guide that you can return to every time that thought pops into your head for the thousandth time. You go in for a date with your machine and vaguely recall dropping in a certain needle or know absolutely nothing as to what’s going on down there below the surface where all those fabric ions are crashing.

1. The Motion of the Needle: What Moves, Why, and How

1.1 Oscillation: The Needle’s Dance

Description: The needle of the sewing machine, although driven, passes not a full rotation, but reciprocates or an upward-and-downward motion, such as oscillation. The needle is always going down, then into the cloth (then up–enabling the shuttle or hook under it to catch in a loop of thread–and down again). So that’s the basic motion of the needle of a sewing machine.

Some will tell you it’s simple harmonic motion (which is a type of oscillation), but actual machines rarely make simple harmonic motion. You watch the needle of the sewing machine going back and forth, and it’s this cycle that is important to make a good stitch.

You read or wondered: “needle of a sewing machine is dash motion” — some people refer to it as “dash-or-dash-and pause” because there is a millisecond hiatus at the top and bottom of each stroke. This pause is brief, but vital: It allows the hook to snare a thread loop or for the fabric to travel forward before it repeats its descent.

1.2 Graphical Representations of the Nodes via Needle Writing in Words

Imagine, in the condition of (needle head plan), to illustrate a needle motion (working up and down from the edge plate). You would like to draw an oscillation of a straight line moving between 2 points on paper, for example, point A and B. As the needle drives down through the fabric, a tiny loop is formed, and this little bit of thread (the diameter needs to fit through the eye) is seized by a hook that pulls it back ever so slightly without affecting stitch length. The shaft is hollowed or grooved with what amounts essentially to a scarf through which the thread or other hook action may be taken to form a guide and clearer. Stitches-per-minute come from Cycles-per-minute.

It is that movement — up, down, and with varying amounts of side-to-side or patterned movements in more complex machines (zigzag, embroidery) — that drives a sewing machine. There are also many other knitting machine for example sentro knitting machine, silver reed knitting machine, Brother knitting machine which you can select as per your choice for knitting.

1.3 Why Understanding Motion Matters

It tooks me a lot of trial and error to learn you can’t really violate them and expect your machine to be cool with it: If the needle is jacked, then bent or dull or in the wrong place twisted out of position along any axis whatsoever — the driver’s side tire alignment of a needle, if you will — damage happens (stitches skip! thread breaks! fabric mangles!). So before you even get to the what type and size of needle, if your needle in your machine isn’t straight with everyone else (in position timing-wise) when it comes to feed and hook…it’s all going to be out of whack.

2. Anatomy and Types: What Do the Needles Look Like?

2.1 Anatomy Brief: Shank, Blade, Scarf, Groove, Eye, Point:

Before we get into types, here’s what the parts of a needle do.

Shank/Butt: The top end, which is placed into the needle carrier of the sewing machine. In most home machines, that’s a flat shank, and so it goes in the correct direction.

Blade/Shaft: The thinner and longer part of the iron that fits between (or pleats) two layers of fabric.

Scarf or Hook : Hollow ground on the back above the eye to provide clearance for the hook as it catches the thread loop.

Groove: Made to be used on both manual and CNC equipment, Cut along the front of the blade through its length to protect threads as they drop.

Eye: The opening through the head over which the thread passes.

Point/Tip: The design (sharp, ballpoint, wedge) of a needle according to the way it enters the material being sewn.

According to these factors, sewing machine needles come in types according to point type, eye form and size, reinforcement structure (strength) of the needle, or special shape adapted for fabric or the work.

2.2 Sample Categories of Needles and their uses

After writing up the (probably boring) chat I had with the cat in my sewing room about needles and reading through Schmetz needle chart, here are a few of the most popular sizes/needle types that float around my house:

Universal (Regular/Standard): The all-purpose needle used for sewing woven and knit fabrics. Tip is brow-(or butt-)thick but sharpness enhanced by a little rounding.

Ball Point/Jersey: Great for stretch fabrics, because the rounded tip doesn’t pierce the fabric.

Stretch: For stretch knit or synthetic fabrics, Similar to the ball point but on steroids, it should help you not skip stitches.

Jeans/Denim: With a reinforced blade and a slightly bigger(bigger is often around medium)size ball (need a strong point to penetrate thick woven fabric like denim layers easily).

Quilting/Patchwork: A finer tip than your normal jeans needle for perfectly pieced pockets when doing (and shaped to prevent stitch pucker) all those itty bitty pieces together, and going through several layers of fabric or batting.

Microtex/Sharp: extra fine acute point creates beautiful topstitching and is perfect for straight stitches when precision is paramount.

Topstitch/Decorative: Eye large; groove long to allow thick thread, or for use of double threads; top stitching, decorative or metallic thread.

Metallic/Specialty: These are created to minimize the risk of thread breakage when embroidering (metallic and rayon threads) with a larger eye or special profile.

Even if I’m sewing different materials, I feel like I switch needle type a lot (not just size), say a jeans needle for denim pants is very different from one of my finest needles, like a microtex that feels so good in silk.

2.3 Schmetz Needle System & Color Coding

I don’t know about you, but I’ve used Schmetz brand needles for years and love them – and that has a lot to do with the fact that they label their needle uses so clearly. Most domestic machines are designed for the 130/705 H system (Hobby Lock shank system).

They even have a color marking system – the top one (shoulder) is for the needle type, and then the next band for size. For instance, there is a blue top stripe for JEANS to which a yellow top stripe is added when the fabric type becomes STRETCH, etc. This does help a lot, because those small numbers on the sizer can disappear and leave you no way to size your beads.

Once you are familiar with the Schmetz color codes, reaching for the right needle becomes second nature!

3. Sewing Machine Needle Sizes

3.1 Understanding Size Systems & the Metric NM Standard

Size Systems & Metric NM Standard Sizes First things first, before you even attempt to try on a pattern and look in the mirror! 3.1 Let’s toss one back: What sizes are?

I was very confused when I first began all the code numbers (80/12, 90/14). I also found out that Schmetz (and all but a few of the needle manufacturers we are familiar with today) rate their needles by using a metric number system: NM = blade diameter x 100. For instance, a 0.80 mm NM 80 has an outside diameter of 0.80 mm.

So:

• NM 60 = 0.60 mm (approx. US size 8)
• NM 75 = 0.75 mm (≈ U.S. 11)
• NM 90 = 0.90 mm (≈ U.S. 14)
• NM 100 = 1.00 mm, etc.

It is also available in dual-coded size (80/12 or 90/14, for instance) if that helps you make the transition from old sizing systems. Scmetz supplies its own metric vs the old “size” tables.

From my own sewing, I will tell you – it is very important to get the right size for your thread thickness and fabric weight. If the needle is too fine, it may trample or break; if too large, it may damage the cloth.

3.2 Size of sewing Needle: Size of hand sewing needle(mm)

The other reason I mention it is hand sewing needles; I do have to do hand-finishing or repairs occasionally. Something else to keep in mind is that hand needles are not sized the same as machine needles, and it can be mapped if you pair thickness/size needles. Many hand Sewing Needles (sharps, chenille, straw, etc.) (“5, 7, 9…11) – Other charts compare these to the diameters in mm.

For example:

. A No. 9 sharp needle can have an outer body diameter of approximately 0.65-0.75 mm.

. A No. 5 chenille needle is significantly thicker – around 1.0mm or more.

Having this chart is especially useful when looking to pair a hand needle with a fabric weight or size of thread, like for delicate handwork or appliqué that will later be machine-stitched.

4. From My Workbench: How I Apply This Knowledge (User Experience & Tips)

4.1 Always Start with a Test on Scrap

There’s one habit I’ve adopted: always test your needle out on a scrap of your real fabric. This stage will expose lousy stitches, bunch or strip in excellent time prior to you start sewing a particular project. It took me ages to get used to which needle + thread combos were fine regardless of the material (e.g., 90/14 universal for quilting cotton, 100/16 jeans for denim).

4.2 Don’t Overlook the Eye and Thread Compatibility

Don’t forget the Eye and Thread. Once you are making a bead selection to go with your painting, don’t forget what eye or thread of needlework it will fit on.

The thread was through half of the eyehole, and it continued to snag. As a rule, the thickness wouldn’t be anywhere close to the width of (across) the groove in the eye. Because if I did, then either I would jump needle size or use a specialty needle with a larger eye (topstitch or metallic).

4.3 Change the Needle Regularly

And you know what, I’ll second that from what I’ve seen in layout work, even a ‘fine-looking’ needle can end up dull. I replace after 8 hours (quilting jeans / thick fabric) or at the start of a big project. Here are some other things to look for that tells you you’re using the wrong needle: Stitch skipping, Shredding of thread or fabric, and drag. Schmetz also suggests not letting it go too long.

4.5 Robots and Machines Let the Machine Lead

Not all machines accept larger or specialty needles equally well. My older model occasionally takes umbrage with 120/19 needles — they will vibrate or misfeed. Consult your machine manual, and start with a smaller specialty needle if necessary.

5. Putting it Together: Selecting Which Needle to Use

Here’s an applied decision flow that I use (and recommend others):

1. Know your fabric type & weight.

Knowing the type and weight of your fabric makes all the difference when scouting for a bag that is best for you.

E.g., light voile, cotton poplin, denim, leather, knit, or stretch.

2. Find your Thread Type & Size

Is it their fine polyester, heavy topstitch thread, metallic thread, or something else?

3. Choose the needle type

A sewing machine needle types chart can be helpful:

. Knit/stretch → Ball point/Stretch

. Denim/ Multiple layers → Jeans/Topstitch.

. Delicate fabrics → Microtex

. Leather or other heavy non-woven → leather/Wedge

. Decorative/metallic threads → Topstitch, Metallic

4. Select the proper size (NM/U.S.)

Check sewing machine needle sizes and uses table: fabric & thread.

E.g., if sewing medium cotton with standard 50‑wt thread, go 80/12 or 90/14.

5. Insert the needle properly

It is simply a case of inserting the needle properly (making sure it’s straight, pushed all the way home, and oriented correctly – flat shank aligned in the right direction).

6. Test on scrap, observe stitch quality at necessary points. If there are skips or fabric shredding, the needle is either the wrong type, the wrong size, or dull.
7. Observe long-term — if problems continue after you’re midway through a project, feel free to switch the needle.

I have used this method to avoid many turned into ruined stitches over the years.

YouTube Review Videos

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Conclusion

Through the years, I’ve learned that mastering needles is nothing short of one of the most empowering skills a sewer can hone. Intuitive understanding of how the needle motion in the sewing machine works, confusion on sizes and uses of sewing machine needles, along with a healthy dose of vice-versa trust in Schmetz needle sizes and uses (and sometimes an excursion into hand sewing needle to mm conversion plus looking up the hand sewing machine size chart), now worth easy dividends.

When I start working on a new project, however, I don’t just look at it and guess what tools to use; instead, I operate by the following method: identify fabric + thread, select needle type, pick size, insert carefully, test, and adjust. That provides me with confidence, consistency, and fewer errors. Since the sewing machine’s only as good as the needle that performs its delicate dance of oscillation, it’s worth getting to know.

FAQs

What is the name of the needle of the sewing machine?

A sewing machine needle is typically referred to as a “machine needle,” though, strictly speaking, it’s one piece of a standardized system. 80% of the home sewing machines are designed using 130/705 H needles (system with a flat shank). Some people also like to call it by its brand-specific names (like “Schmetz needle” or “Singer needle,” depending on the company).

What needle for a sewing machine?

The right type of needle varies based on the type of fabric you’re using, your thread, and the sewing project. Here’s a quick guide:

• Universal needle – for sewing very fine quilting cotton to heavier polyester on woven and some knit fabrics
• Ballpoint (Jersey) needle – for stretch fabrics and knits
• Jeans/Denim Needle—- It is a jeans/denim needle for those heavier, tightly woven fabrics such as denim.
• Microtex (Sharp) needle – for lightweight or closely woven fabric such as silk
• Stretch needle – elastic or spandex-heavy fabrics
• Leather needle – to use on non-woven fabrics such as leather and vinyl
• Topstitch or Metallic needle – for decorative or thick threads

Refer to the sewing machine needle size chart for your project and then choose from an assorted pack that gives you a variety of sizes based on your fabric weight and thread size.

What does a sewing machine needle look like?

Sewing machine needles are relatively thin, needle-like devices with a flat or round top (shank) and eye at one end, a point at the other, and a long groove down its front side.

The needle’s eye (where you put the thread) is near the point, not up top like its hand counterpart.

Each piece is built to help the thread move along and work with the machine timing to produce a stitch. A sewing machine needle drawing is in many manuals or needle guides to help you understand the parts of this special type of needle.